Vw Golf Mk4 Tdi Manual
Note this is for the TDI only, the 1.8T and VR6 are similar, but wiring, and programming are almost 100% different. Why do you want to swap? 1) the 01m automatic transmission is junk. And at $4500 used, it's expensive junk 2) the 02j 5 speed is not junk, and at $600-$1000 used, you can save a lot of money converting. 3) The automatic TDI only gets about 35 MPG real world, where the manual is capable of delivering a prius challenging 50 MPG. 4) It's the 'green' thing to do. 5) Your automatic transmission just died.
The Volkswagen Golf Mk4 (or VW Type 1J). The Brazilian Golf TDI PD was sold in Canada due to its. A 6-speed manual 02M transmission marked the most.
And you want to save some money, and get better economy to boot. This is my first instructable, Thanks to everyone who voted for me in the Epilog Challenge! I don't think I'm going to win, but hey it's not a bad try! Who is this for?
This instructable is for owners of any Mk4 VW Golf/Jetta/Beetle. 1998-2006 beetle, 1999.5-2005 jetta, and 1999.5-2005 Golf. This one is specifically from a 2001 Beetle TDI ith occasional shots from a 2003 Jetta TDI. It's for the budget conscious, or for the green, or for those who want a little more power. Notable DIfferences The automatic has a different: Coolant pipe Power steering line Injection Pump Axles Transmission Computer (the manual doesn't have any wires, other than the speed sensor and the reverse switch) Transmission (Duh!) Shift Linkage (Duh!) Clutch Pedal.
Not there (Duh!) Starter Wiring Harness (Duh!) Park Neutral Relay Since there are all of these differences, we're not going to use the transmission, transmission computer, axles, Starter, chunks of the wiring harness, park neutral relay, and probably a bunch of other stuff that was left out just because we're a bit lazy, or didn't take that photo. We're going to adapt the existing harness for clutch cancel, cruise, and reverse switch later on. We're also going to adapt one of the brackets from the automatic wiring harness to support the power steering line. First things first, don't try this unless you've got a flat area, jack stands, wheel chocks, and some help! Preperation: Loosen the front lug nuts (they're acutally bolts, so remember DON'T REMOVE THE BOLTS!!!) Jack the car up, support it, and chock the wheels remove both front tires Have someone step on the brakes while you complete the following: Remove the 30mm 12 point nuts holding on the axles to the wheel hubs. Remove the M10 or M12 bolts holding the axles to the transmission Start removing the axles: Remove the 16mm bolt from the front of the A arm to the sway bar, and move it out of the way Use a Three arm puller (or axle shaft removal tool) to push the axle out of the hub, then turn the wheel one way or the other to remove both axles. Remove the transmission: Go under the car, on the back of the automatic transmission dust tin is a plastic cover, remove the cover Rotate the engine to remove the three 15mm nuts from the torque converter Remove the battery, tray, and air box Remove all wiring harnesses from the automatic transmission Remove the Power Steering line from the automatic transmission mount Remove the shift linkage using a pry bar Unplug the Transmission cooler hoses and use a 5/8' coolant hose coupler.
Remove the Starter Remove both upper bolts from the top of the transmission Support the engine with an engine support Remove the two Transmission mount bolts (18mm bolts) Remove the lower transmission mount, this can be a pain, but it will help facilitate the removal of the transmission greatly. Rotate the engine and transmission slightly forward using a screwjack between the engine and the subframe (the car comes with one in the trunk.
A.K.A 'The Widowmaker Jack') Place transmission Jack under transmission Remove the four lower transmission bolts Remove transmission (yeah, I make it sound easy!) Prep the block! Remove the flexplate and the dust tins on the engine. An impact would be nice here, or have someone counterhold the engine on the other side. This should be a 17 or 18mm 12 point socket. Remove the Shift linkage: Remove three bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo Remove two 13mm bolts holding it to a cross member Loosen two 17mm nuts holding a pipe clamp in place.
Slide pipe clamp to the rear of the car (sometimes this requires a hammer) Remove the downpipe from the car Remove the Front Heat Sheild from the bottom of the car to expose the Shifter assembly. Remove the two bolts from the shifter assembly Go back into the inside of the car Beetle: Remove the console, see your manual it's a bit complicated.
We've got most of it in photos below. But your mileage may vary! Golf/Jetta: Remove ash tray Remove cigarette lighter assembly Remove Metal cross brace Remove the Shifter handle by putting the car into neutral, then pull the thumb lever out, then yank the whole thing off HARD. Remove the metal cover Remove the plastic PRND321 cover by snapping it off Remove the shifter trim slider by snapping it off Remove the two wiring harnesses Remove the Shift Lock Solenoid wire Remove the two 13mm nuts, and the shifter should drop out Now for the rest of the removal story. So you thought the previous was easy.
Most people can get that far in a day, so now that you've burned off the first two hours of your day. Just when you thought we were done removing stuff. Basically everything after this point is annoying little stuff, so we're in warp gear.
Break out the service manuals for torque information! There won't be as many photos, since there isn't much to show. No secrets, just a little cursing when you can't get the transmission in on the first stab.
Now time to stab that shifter, put the heatsheild back in place, and put the exhaust back! (yes that's one of the steps. Do it now!) Stab the clutch pedal without the hydraulic line installed. Three 13mm nuts hold it to the firewall Mount the clutch pedal bracket that braces it with the brake pedal, put the clutch switch bracket on this stud. Mount the sensors on the clutch pedal as stated in the wiring on the previous page, the cruise goes on the bottom, the cancel goes on the top bracket Put the hard hydraulic line on the clutch pedal under the hood Put the soft clutch line on the clutch pedal under the hood Cut the Brake fluid reservoir nipple where the soft clutch line connects Quickly put the soft clutch line on the reservoir.
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Install the Clutch Don't forget to align the clutch before and during tightening the pressure plate Install the transmission Don't forget to lube the input shaft Install the starter Install the dieselgeek Short Shifter, and adjust Install and Bleed the Slave Cylinder, verify clutch pedal has feel to it Dont forget the transmission mount below! Plug in the reverse light switch Install the Axles Install the axle heat sheild Install the Swaybar Install the airbox, battery tray, battery, etc Now on to the key on test! Now for the key on test. First key on means you don't start the car. It's just keying on to check lights, program the computer, etc.
Key on Now, open your VCDS software with the cable plugged into the DLC connector under the drivers side dash you should still have apart Go to Engine Go to Coding Change the coding from 1 to 2 Save Exit Key Off Key On Go to Engine Go to Fault Codes Clear Codes Exit Exit Now your car is configured for a manual transmission car. Put the car into reverse, you should have reverse lights, remove the car from reverse start the car briefly, check for unusual noises mount the tires, and take it for a quick spin check cruise control and that all gears work properly Come back and reassemble the interior in the reverse order you took it apart and you are DONE!
Now you too can have 50 MPG at 65 MPH! So I did the Swap and the VAGCOM but i still do not have cruise control and since i wired in the cruise from tcm to ecu i have a very bad idle. I am a little confused about the wording in the instructions for wiring as it says cut the yellow red at tcu and connect to grey red at tcu but i do not understand why id reconnect a wire to the tcu when its going to be inoperable. Can someone please clarify this part of the instruction?
I feel as though this is wrong or i am misreading something. My car is a 2001 jetta 1.9 tdi with a 04 02j.
This instructable wasn't designed for 1.8T swaps, only TDI swaps There are a ton of people who are doing this, however it's not even close to the same thing for wiring the cruise. 1) did you put in a manual ECU? 2) Did you connect the VSS sensor to the instrument cluster?
3) Did you connect the A27 bus from the ECU to the instrument cluster? These are not covered by this instructable, it's over the head of most everyone I've tried to instruct online, so I leave it blank for those who can read a bentley manual. I'm having the same issue.
Similar swap, I put a 5 spd in my 02 VW Jetta GTI 1.8T. Car's running fine, can't figure out how to connect the speedometer tho. I can't find anywhere online where anyone is specifically instructing how to connect the VSS sensor to the instrument cluster.
Can you also tell me what the A27 bus is? I need the help to finish this car and I can follow along to your instructions.
Vw Golf Mk4 Tdi Service Manual
As an aside, I am a professional mechanic in performance and modifications for 17 years, but I don't have experience in VW. This is my first transfer with VW so I don't know all these differences.
If you want to have a private message conversation, I would really appreciate it. In fact, any help is appreciated.
These are transmissions for the MK 4 Models. Those include the Jetta and Golf from 1999-2004 as well as the New Beetle 1998-2004.
Vw Golf 4 Tdi Manual
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