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Parts Manual for Massey Harris 30 Hydraulic Equipment This Parts Manual contains 144 pages of helpful information. The manual is a digitally enhanced reproduction of the OEM manual and is bound for a lifetime of use. A must have for any Massey Harris 30 owner. Notes: Equipment Hydraulic Equipment Year / Serial Number: Sample Page(s) from Parts Manual Which Manual Do I Need?

1. Hydraulic Cylinder Service Manual
2. Hydraulic Cylinder Repair Manual
3. Amarillo Hydraulic Equipment & Repair

Sep 24, 2014 - 6 Maintenance manual. Damaged parts of the hydraulic cylinder occurred during transportation. First remove all package material, like.

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There are 3 main types of manuals, each with a specific purpose. Some manuals combine types (i.e. Parts + Operators, etc.), but the basic function of the manual types remain the same and are as follows:. Service Manual (SVC) - The service manual (Shop manual or Repair manual) tells you how to take the machine apart, fix it, and put it back together. It is written in the language of a mechanic and may include valuable detailed information such as specifications, torques, ranges, etc. If you are serious about repairs or restoration, you need the service manual.

Parts Manual (PTS) - The parts manual has exploded views of all parts on the machine, giving great detail on assembly and disassembly. It also includes a guide for ordering parts. It picks up where service manuals leave off. If you do your own repairs, you need the parts manual. Operators Manual (OPT) - The operators manual (Owners manual) came with the tractor.

It gives the owner/operator instructions, shift patterns, capacities (anti freeze, crankcase, etc.) and adjustment procedures (brakes, clutch, etc.). This is a critical tool for operating and maintaining your machine. Complete Kits - Get all the manuals for your machine plus a few other perks and ensure you will not be missing critical information in the middle of your repair job.

Whether you are a small farmer, or have a large ranchette, you probably own a tractor or some other type of equipment which utilizes a hydraulic cylinder for some function or another. Most modern tractors, including backhoes and front end loaders, use these simple devices for the power steering and lift systems. These same types of hydraulic cylinders are used extensively on many types of combines and cultivation equipment, as well as more and more types of machinery. Eventually the seals will start to leak oil a little but there comes a time when the amount spent on hydraulic oil makes it imperative to rebuild the cylinder. This article takes you through the steps needed to break down the cylinder and replace the o-rings and other seals on the piston and gland. Although not a difficult procedure, it is very important to take your time with the process.

There are so many different types of hydraulic cylinders manufactured for all kinds of functions and machines that you should try to locate the correct repair or rebuild kit before starting your dis-assembly. The parts numbers are usually stamped into the end cap or on the outside of the cylinder. If your particular cylinder is a major make, such as a Case, John Deere, or other well-known brand, simply go to the local dealer and buy or order the kit you need. You may also get a printout of the parts diagram which may prove very helpful in the rebuilding process, or in some cases you may find a print-out online instead. You may have to order the parts on the internet, but as long as you have the part numbers this should be no problem. It is always best to have the parts when the process begins to ensure the new and old parts are the same size and type. When the cylinder is used for raising or lowering heavy objects or for other weight-bearing purposes, always brace or otherwise support the weight with jacks or blocks to prevent injury to yourself or the equipment.

Some of these pieces are quite heavy and unwieldy, so be aware of the danger of crushing fingers or hands during the repairs. The hydraulic cylinder being rebuilt in this article is one of a pair used for raising the bucket on the front end loader of a Case 580C backhoe. I have already rebuilt several of the other cylinders on the backhoe part of the machine.

Each cylinder, or set of cylinders, has a different gland and seal kit. I do not have all of the correct wrenches for each gland so I make my own. Eventually I will have a wrench for each cylinder, or so I hope. The glands have four holes used for unscrewing them from the cylinder. The tool I constructed here uses two prongs of spring steel cut from a spring tooth out of a peanut combine.

Soft steel may work, but not on a large cylinder. Measure the distance between two of the opposite holes and place the two prongs the same distance. A cutting torch and welder are the best tools a small farm or homeowner’s shop can possess. Blow the holes through, insert the prongs and weld tight. Works well and costs very little, not too pretty though. For those who lack access to metalworking tools I've provided an ad for a couple of gland removal tools on this page. I personally vouch for their quality and ease of use.

Before doing anything, be sure all pressure is released from the cylinder. Loosen or remove the hydraulic lines on each end of the cylinder as this will allow all pressure to escape. You may be able to unscrew the gland without removing either end of the cylinder assembly from its end connections. In this case, I needed the room, so I pulled the pin from the piston rod end.

Using the new tool, the gland is unscrewed from the hydraulic cylinder. In some cases a slight tap or bump with a hammer may be applied to the tool to break the gland loose. Once loosened, the gland should unscrew easily and pull away from the hydraulic cylinder if there is room on the piston rod.

With the gland removed, pull the piston rod from the cylinder. Large hydraulic cylinders may have to be supported to keep them straight while removing the piston rod. A winch is sometimes used for large cylinders but is not required in most cases. Try to keep the piston rod from falling into the dirt or against other metal objects when it pulls out of the cylinder. Protect all parts, such as the fine threads inside of the cylinder from any damage, this is a very important and potentially costly precaution. Do not hurry!.

When the piston rod is free put the rod end back into its pin connection and unscrew the retaining bolt which holds the piston to the rod. In extreme cases, this bolt may have to be heated if a thread locking substance has been used in a prior rebuilding process. Try not to heat the piston any more than necessary and this should work well.

Place the parts in order and take a photo or two for later reference if needed. As always, whenever handling heavy parts or dealing with hydraulic repairs, be very careful to avoid injury, not only yourself, but to the very expensive cylinder and piston assemblies.

Always take it slow and careful during the entire hydraulic cylinder rebuild process. Most hydraulic cylinder rebuild kits will furnish a diagram for correct installation purposes so look this over well before replacing the o-rings and seals in the gland and piston. All will be slightly different from each other so you will have to identify each new seal and o-ring. Some of these seals are very thin and may be damaged if not installed evenly.

In some cases, the old seal may be used as an aid to reinstalling the new piece. Be careful to put these in very evenly or they may be damaged in the process. Examine each o-ring in each groove and remove and install these one at a time to keep from getting confused as to correct placement. Clean each groove and seat carefully before replacing with the new part. Reverse the process when reassembling the piston to the rod using a thread locking adhesive when replacing the piston rod bolt. Oil all parts well and use a piece of wood on the rod end if needed when tapping the piston back into the cylinder Do not use a thread locking substance on the gland threads when screwing the gland back into the cylinder.

Replace the hydraulic lines and test for leaks around the new seal. Follow the same basic procedure for most cylinder types. Good luck and be careful at all times! Hello Michelle, I admire your tackling this type of repair at your age. I'm 66 and it's gotten tougher for me to do.

The use of grease or other type of lubricant is to make the assembly easier and to protect the new parts before the hydraulic oil coats the surfaces. Coat the new seals and piston rings liberally with any type of oil or grease. The same for the piston rod or any other friction area. Good luck with your project and feel free to contact me in these comments or by email at my profile photo.:) Randy. I'm a 74 year old fogey feeling my way through rebuilding the hydraulic cylinder on our Case 530 backhoe.

These things have fallen on me since my husband had his stroke. I'm fairly inventive, and I am actually enjoying being a pretend mechanic. One video I watched on rebuilding hydraulic cylinders showed the new packing heavily smeared with a black grease before reassembly. I'm not a tractor mechanic, but I'm too sure about that.

Another recommends white lithium grease. Could you please comment as to what type of oil you recommend for lubrication and exactly where to use it. After looking and watching a lot of articles on cylinder repair, i think this is the best for my application with the tools i have. Don't discount other articles, as they explain different glan or end removal.

Check condition of rod and cylinder. Several sites gave me useful information which i will use and i suggest you check a lot of them until you are confident you can repair your type of cylinder. After all this, if you are not sure take it to someone who repairs cylinders. I now have repair kits ordered and will proceed with cleaning and loosening gland ends while waiting.

Good luck to all. John, sorry to be so long in responding to you but I'm vacation in the mountains. Did you extend the piston rod to its full length before loosening the gland, or is the rod extended to the bottom of the cylinder? This makes a big difference as an extended piston rod will often bind the piston in the cylinder and makes it very difficult to remove in some cases. You may try a come-along-a ratcheting cable-to help remove the piston and rod, just be sure the rod is pulling evenly and not at an angle.

Hope this helps but if not, I'll be checking in at least once a day on all of my repair articles till I get back home. Randy, thanks for the advice on the swing cylinder on my CASE 480E. I removed the cylinder to the backhoe boom pin by removing a six inch bolt from the bottom of the pin.

A local heavy equipment shop used a 1” impact wrench and removed the piston retaining bolt, no heat necessary just one big impact wrench. I repacked the gland seals but ran into a problem with the piston, the middle piston seal. After getting the piston seal over the lip of the piston and into the middle of the piston, I noticed the seal stretched and is sagging around the piston instead of being snug. No problems with the piston’s backup ring. The seal is yellow and seems to be made from a plastic material.

Other smaller cylinders I repacked had a fel-pro like gasket material for the piston seal with a innerlock which allowed it to expanded and slip over the lip of the piston than compressed back. Do you think the piston seal will shrink to the normal size when installed? Glad to help out, Mike!

I've rebuilt the swing cylinders also and the spring is a pressure release mechanism which prevents the cylinders from over extending the boom. Yes, be careful when you remove it so as not to damage the spring assembly. This is one of the cylinders which you shouldn't get the piston rod retaining nut too hot in the removal process as it will ruin the tension on the spring. I had to take it to a friend's welding shop because he had a very strong impact wrench to remove the nut without heat. I don't believe you can over tighten the nut in the assembly process but be sure to use thread-loc of some sort as on all of the piston rod threads.

About removing the pin on the rod assembly, mine was simply a pin with the locking clip on the top side for each cylinder. When the clip was removed the pin fell out the bottom. Not sure if yours is the same.

Feel free to ask for more info if you need it. Thanks for the question and good luck with the repairs.:) Randy.

Yes Mike, the system needs to be purged ever so often depending on how much the machine is used. Normally the heat from the oil would evaporate any moisture getting into the system if the machine is operated frequently, but mine sits idle for long periods of time and tended to retain the moisture until it needed to be replaced.

Too much moisture will cause the seals to wear out and leak much faster than clean hydraulic oil. I suggest letting the oil get hot before draining it or much of the gunk will remain in the system. I really do not know the most effective manner in which to remove the oil from your machine as I don't have reference to the drain plug. Thanks for the question, Mike.:).

Randy, another question for my 480E. Have you ever purged the hydraulic fluid system? I notice the hydraulic fluid looks like coffee with creamer in it.

I found glumps of frozen water inside the tractor’s cylinders when I pulled them apart. I thought perhaps I can bleed the contaminated fluid as if I was bleeding air out of an automobile hydraulic brake system, i.e. Just crack the hydraulic fitting at the cylinder and let the fluid pour out until it gets clear, of course refilling the reservoir with new fluid.

What do you think? Randy, very useful information. Tractor: CASE 480E, backhoe, rear stabilizer. Question, what is the torque value for the bolt that holds the piston to the cylinder's rod assembly. The bolt is grade 8, 1' in diameter and has 1' 1/2' bolt head.

According to a bolt chart, the bolt is rated for 1,000 foot pounds, seems excessive. I don't know what torque value the rod assembly thread's are rated for.

I would hate to pull the threads out of the rod. The rod assembly diameter is 1' 3/4', cylinder part number is G102294. While the bolt head was red hot I used a 3/4 inch impact wrench with 185 psi - no joy. I've been wondering if I should have let the bolt cool down, after it broke loose, before trying to take it on out? It does act like the threads are crossed, but I can't imagine how it could have been put all the way in, and seated, with crossed threads. I plan to give the penetrating oil a good chance to work.

I'll be sure to let you know how it turns out. Do you think the threads could have crossed when it broke loose? Sorry you are having so much trouble rebuilding your cylinder, Victor. I should emphasize keeping the piston rod as straight as possible when removing it from the cylinder, especially when it has a retaining ring of some sort. Usually the gland is threaded and a retaining ring is not required.

It isn't uncommon for the piston bolt to require heat to remove it because of the thread locking substance used for safety, but I've never encountered a problem with removing it after being heated and broken loose. At this point you can often remove it by hand. I'm sorry to say I have no clue why the bolt will not come out. This is a new one on me. I'd be very appreciative if you'd let me know if and when you get it free.

Others may benefit from your experience. Again, I apologize for my ignorance about this problem. I too am an amateur at some things.:) Thanks for your time and input on this page. Thanks for your fast response Randy. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner - worked on the cylinder all day. It turned out that the problem was that I got too aggressive with the 'extreme force' - you were right, it was just a little out of line and when it got to the ring groove, all of that pressure I put on it caused a very small ridge to form.

There was no pulling it out past that ridge so I very carefully ground it down with a dremel, then it came out easily. Now there is a new (to me) problem: had to heat the bolt to get it to break loose.

The trouble is, now that it is started, it won't come on out. I've broken all of my tools trying to get it to back out of there.

I've twisted the ends off of two 3/4 inch Snap-On break-over bars. It seems that the farther the bolt comes out, the tighter it gets! I also broke an eight inch bench vice right in half - cheater pipes bring a LOT of force to the job. Have you ever had this problem before?

By the way Randy, thank you for maintaining this hub for all of us amateurs out here. Hi Randy, I'v read your entire hub looking for help with my problem. I'm replacing the seals in the top crowd cylinder on a John Deere backhoe. I've removed the lock-nut and the retaining ring. The rod can easily be pulled out until the piston reaches the retaining ring groove in the cylinder and that is as far as I can get it to move. I've tried extreme force - a 6000 lb. I chained the cylinder to my SUV, then chained the rod to my 4-wheeler - drug the SUV right out of the shop.

Tried whacking it with a hammer while applying pressure. Tried wiggling it up and down and side to side while pulling.

I'm out of ideas. Can you help? Show Details Necessary HubPages Device ID This is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons.

Hydraulic Cylinder Service Manual

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Hydraulic Cylinder Repair Manual

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Amarillo Hydraulic Equipment & Repair

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